Wine Spectator: Sun Shines on Washington
The 2015 vintage, another in a series of hot years, brings big, ripe reds
By Tim Fish
Heat…That one word describes what a string of recent vintages in Washington have in common. For four years in a row-2013, 2914, 2015 and 2016-the Pacific Northwest state experienced unusually sunny and warm growing seasons.
That isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as all four vintages produced many outstanding wines. Yet it’s worth noting that the wines reflect all that heat stylistically, particularly the 2015s, which are now in wide release. That’s the upshot based on my blind tastings of more than 450 wines in our Napa office since my previous report on the category (“Headway and Hurdles,” Aug. 31, 2017), the majority of them from 2015.
In general, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignons, Syrahs and Merlots are ripe, full-bodied and big-flavored. Overall, the aromatics of the 2015s are more demure than is typical, and structurally the reds are undeniably tannic. The tannin levels, in particular, give me pause, and though I gave the 2015s a preliminary rating of 92-95 points on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale last year, I’m now more cautious and peg the vintage at 91 points. That’s still an outstanding rating, but I’m not convinced the tannins will resolve over time; only a handful of Washington producers, including the consistently high-performing Quilceda Creek, have track records long enough to make any predictions about future development. (A free alphabetical list of scores and prices for all wines tasted for this report is available at WineSpectator.com/083118.)
Although Washington’s top wines now fetch as much as $200, winemakers in the state can still be relied upon to deliver high-scoring wines at value prices. Leading the pack in this year’s selection of best buys is the Milbrandt Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2015 (91 points, $17), a precise and well-built red with refined black cherry flavors. The Wines of Substance Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Cs Substance 2016 ( 90, $1 7) is dark and spirited, with appealing blackberry and smoked anise notes. Among Merlots, the Canoe Ridge Horse Heaven Hills The Expedition 2015 (90, $16) is sleek and aromatic, with blackberry, thyme and rosemary accents. For value whites, look to Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Chardonnay Columbia Valley Indian Wells 2016 (90, $17), which is expressive and lively, with tropical fruit and toasty spice flavors, as well as the always dependable Charles Smith Riesling Ancient Lakes Of Columbia Valley Kung Fu Girl Evergreen 2016 (89, $13), a fun quaff, with floral nectarine and lime flavors.
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